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  • Ford Fusion Audio

    (updated 4/21/08)
    soon™ I will be upgrading my Fusions stereo and speaker system. I have began to upgrade my Fusion Audio System. It was a stock Audiophile sytem with a 6 disk built in CD changer and 8 speakers (2 “subs” 2 rear doors, 2 front doors, and 2 tweeters in the front door sails.) I plan to have a step by step guide on how to do this. I will say however these are the parts I have bought or am looking at. All are from Crutchfield (First time buyers to Crutchfield user referral code py5ft-fc882-1shai and get $20 bucks off $200 or more) since the harnesses and installations sheets are free with purchase.

    Head Unit: (done, see writeup below speaker write up (pictures coming))
    Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD (basically the AVIC-D3 without the Nav)

    Speakers:
    Tweeter location: Infinity Reference 1021t (I hope they fit)
    Front Door: Pioneer TS-A6872R (but not sure if I will get a crossover for the tweeters in the pillars or wire those with blockers)
    Rear Door: (done see below for install write up) Pioneer TS-A6872R (Crutchfield says it doesn’t fit but it does fit)
    Rear Deck: as of right now leaving factory subs

    Then I’m adding an iPod adapter and XM radio

    (Update 3/18/08) The headunit has shipped and I went ahead and installed the rear door speakers. I forgot to take pictures, but it is very straight forward.

    Step 1: Gather a 7mm socket, T20 Torx screw driver (or bit), small Flat head screw driver, a crow bar, and a small towel (like a glass cleaning towel)

    Step 2: Take the flat head screw driver and pry the cap off the screw hole in the latch cup. Pry from the top as the cap stays in the cup.

    Step 3: Using the Torx bit, remove the screw you just uncovered in the cup, and remove the cup. Also remove the screw on the side of the door at the top

    Step 4: Using the 7mm socket, remove the bolt in the door handle cup

    Step 5: Release the 9 Clips that holds the shell onto the door. This might be tough so if you can’t get it to budge, get the crowbar and towel. Pleace the towel around the crowbar so you don’t scratch any paint or poke holes. Gently pry around the bottom of the door to release 3 clips. then see if you can release the rest with your hand. If not do the same to the two clips on the outside edge. You should be able to do the rest after this.

    Step 6: Remove the 4 torx screws holding the speaker into place.

    Step 7: Remove the speaker. There is a small seal around the speaker so you may need to tug on it to break it.

    Step 8: Disconnect stock speaker. If you ordered the speaker harness (worth the 14 bucks), just plug that right into the harness and the other end into the speaker.

    Step 9: Placing the wires back into the hole, secure the new speaker with the 4 silver torx screws you removed.

    Step 10: Put the door back together by reversing steps 1-5

    (Update 3/38/08)
    Well the headunit is in. I took some pics but they are crappy cellphone pics (Can’t find my good camera)

    Some tips I have found. If you are keeping the factory subs, you will need a 12 volt to 5 volt regulator. This needs to go on the amp turn on lead to prevent the pop when turning the radio on. The factory amp is looking for 5 volts, anything more than that creates the overpower pop. I’m thinking of making a couple of these harnesses and selling them. If you have any interest, leave a comment with contact info.

    For some reason it does not like the ebrake wire. I don’t know if it is just me, but its odd. I’m thinking of grounding it out and seeing if that bypasses it. (update 4/21/08) It does not like the ford e-brake wire as it technically does not ground out like a normal one does. I looked it up through some manuals and it appears the E-brake sensor works on the CAN bus and sends a signal with the brake is applied. I don’t know is pioneer has a workaround for this.

    Now for the radio install.

    1. Prep the install kit that came with the radio (if purchased from Crutchfield) by removing the middle bar in the trim ring part of the kit (you can ignore the ring with the pocket, that is for single din radios)
    and attaching the harnesses to the radio harness
    Ring Picture
    Harness Picture

    2. Attach the side mounts to the trim ring and insert the p4000dvd from the back
    Picture

    3. Gently pry the trim piece from around the stock radio starting at the sides and working your way up. Unhook the three connectors from the top (two if you have an S or SE) then finish by pulling on the bottom. The bottom might be stuborn to get off, be careful and firm getting it off, you may have to bend the clips back once removed. For some reason they used different clips on the bottom
    Picture

    4. Using a 7mm socket (I think, can’t remember right now), remove the 4 bolts from the old radio and pull it partially out. There will be 3 connectors (two if it is non-audiophile) and the antenna plug. Then pull the radio all the way out.

    5. Once the Radio is out, plug in your new harnesses. In audiophile, you will need the 5 Volt regulator and attach it to the remote turn on lead (blue wires) or you will hear a loud pop from the subs whenever the radio is turned on. You can use a 1.5k ohm resistor but the regulator works better.

    6. Plug the harness into the new radio and slide the new radio into the hole, making sure that you line up the mounting holes and the bottom guide pins.
    Picture

    7. Replace the trim by reconnecting the three harnesses at the top (two for S and SE) and press the trim back into place If you have a SEL, you will need to correct your clock.
    Picture